Hi guys! I am almost finished converting my LARGE Garage into my very own Home project Studio! It has been a real challenge because I wanted to get it right the first time. Just to catch you all up, I Sealed the Garage in (30x20x8.5), put in a raised floor (3/4 OSB on 2x4's), Built a (20x20 nominal) "Room in a Room", leaving 3" of gap between it and the Garage wall, for the interior walls I used 5/8" osb board on the inside and outside with R-19 Insulation inside. I used 2x4 Frame construction and was meticulous with checking for any and all vibration within the walls, needless to say the glue industry has benefited greatly from this...the control room wall has a (2x3) double paned, angled window (Of wich I made Myself) and a solid core door a very good friend donated to me. The control room, (not finished yet) will be (8x20). Now to the matter of room ping...I have an idea that acoustic ceiling tiles stapled dirctly to the ceiling will do the trick for the bounce off of it, but my question is would they be a wise choice for treating the walls? I do not want to lose acoustics, just reduce the bounce a bit. The room will have to be versatile for recording purposes and I know your halls have many who have traveled down this path. If at all possible, I wish to learn from their experience. Thanks in advance for your input!

Bass traps are a must. They wont solve the plate reverb but your room is sure to have standing waves and an uneven bass response. It will no matter what but you can do a lot with bass traps of all sorts to help it the best you can. Sounds like your doing a real great job. The walls could use a good bit of foam. A 50% coverage is a good place to start. Have the pannel placement counter-mirror eachother on the parrallel walls. This will keep your room alive and natural but will get rid of a lot of the multiple reflections. There's a wealth of information on the web. I mentioned in another post the advantage of getting yourself a good acoustic consultant.
It really is a science in and of iself.
I'm excited for you and your room. It sounds like a dream come true.
A fortune I'm sure, but still very exciting.

Thanks for the advice Tweek, I really apreciate your input. I am going to angle each corner of the room and use a fiberboard runner behind the acoustic tile. I hope to eliminate most traps that way. I think you are right about 50% foam, which I have. My new dilemma is the floor and ceiling. I was considering a tight knit carpet on the floor, no padding. On the ceiling I have changed my mind to All foam, what do you think? P.S. I went to change my email address and they booted me out of the system, recommend you not do what I did.

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On the ceiling I have changed my mind to All foam, what do you think?

If you have the extra foam I say give it a shot. Remember though that most of the reflections are gonna come from parallel srufaces and speaker placement. Thus the wall behind you whike you mix. If the wall was a mirror, the place where you would see the monitors tweeters and woofer reflecting is a key place for the foam. Try running a mirror along the back wall to find these places. That will kill off a lot of the direct reflection from the monitors. Thus reducing the need for extensive foam installation on many other areas of the walls.
As with the full ceiling, think about where the the sound that will hit the cieling will come from. It's parallel surface, the floor. If you have carpeting on the floor there will be considerably less refletion to the roof. And then even less if you use the highly recomended bass traps in the corners and where the walls meet the ceiling.
Maybe 50% of the roof in a Bare--Foam--Bare--Foam-Bare pattern. Leaving space in between bass traps and the pyramid foam pannels.
The trick os to get a room with "natural" reflection that doesn't interfere with the sounds in a negative way.
A room without treatment will be washy and smeary and imposible to mix in.
Especially with all the standing waves and phase cancelations from oposite polarity waves bouncing and intermingling.
A room that is over treated will sound dead and unnatural and will cause you to overcompensate for the rooms sound and your mixes will suffer.
The perfect balance will give you as flat a responce as you can get in a real world situation. A wide listening range "sweet spot". A natural sounding room that will be the most likely to allow you to creat mixes that translate well to any room and system.
But killing the ceilings reflections won't cause a completely dead room. It may just work for your set up and needs.
So, if you have the resources, go for it, but it may be wise to do a little research first. Just so you have an ear to stand on, so to speak.
Good luck.

another really important thing when it comes to building a studio is putting up a faraday cage .. if installed corectly this will help block RF freq from coming into your lines ... if your building a studio for serious sound recording not just a live room you want to put in a faraday cage .. there's nothing worse than getting your studio done and you start to record your first track and your mic is picking up feedback from your freinds cell phone or a taxi/ police radio band .. trust me it's happened to me it sucks.. also make sure you get good grounds and isolate where needed, between that and your splayed walls and ceilings, and bass traps and your set for a decent sound ... if you got oney it doesnt hurt to float you your floar .. you can do this with springs or nyopreme rubber

Typically to optimize acoustics within a room you want to find the total surface area of the room (floor, ceiling, and walls) then based on the composition of these surfaces, cover between 15-20% of the total surface area with a sound absorbing material. Foam panels are the most common. Melamine and Polyurethane are two very popular styles, but with the polyurethane you have to take the firecode into consideration. It is typically only a problem in commercial applications, but it can burn fairly quickly if there is a flame source.
American Micro Industries has quite a few products that are very effective for this, and they vary quite a bit in price depending on what you need. The Echo Absorber Natural is actually extremely effective, and fairly low cost.

http://www.soundprooffoam.com/echo-absorber-natural.html